Remember the old days.

I don't like books that take exams first and write articles after reading celebrities. First of all, in addition to consanguinity, many writers who write biographies of celebrities do not have a deep relationship with celebrities. They are close relatives, but not bosom friends. For example, Lu Xun written by Zhou Haiying, a thick book, is not as vivid and cordial as a short article by Xiao Hong. However, Xu Guangping, whom he wrote in his book, by the way, can see that there is a lot of deep love between mother and son. Second, many people write this just to boast about their family background to respect themselves. For example, Hong Huang and her dear Dahongmen say that their family is tired of pork before the broad masses of people have seen pigs run away. As a descendant of several generations of poor peasants, I have never been tired of eating pork. I have always covered my eyes and pretended not to see such a naked show.

but when I saw an excerpt of "Old Man Wang Zengqi" entered on the Internet several years ago, I immediately fell in love with it. After looking for a complete electronic version on the Internet several times, my friend brought his children over for the summer vacation and asked me what I wanted to bring. I quickly went to the Internet to order this book. Bring it over and have a look. I'm not ashamed to have such a thick book. My friend dragged my child across the ocean and brought me a book as thick as a brick. I was too capricious.

apart from this shame, this book feels like good value for money.

reading biographies of celebrities is a bit of a peek into the private lives of celebrities, and it means watching chickens dance after eating eggs, but "Old Man Wang Zengqi" really doesn't have many new revelations in this respect. I have been reading Wang Zengqi's book for almost 20 years. I hit it off and read it over and over again. He always lives and writes without separation, and even novels are half-and-half realistic and fictional, so I dare not know him like the back of my hand, but I still know a lot about him outside his works.

the whole book is the memory of the old man written by his three children respectively. Wang Zengqi said that none of his children are writing materials, but these memories are surprisingly beautiful. I think Wang Zengqi and his children are close to each other. He was a rare breed of Chinese men at that time. His father rode a horse, but he didn't expect his son to succeed. He has childlike innocence and childishness and likes to blend in with children. He inherited the tradition of "father and son become brothers for many years" from his father and passed it on to his children. The truth is revealed, pervading in all the words about the details of life, it doesn't take much skill to look good.

the insert is the old man's picture. He is very conceited about his paintings, saying that he should have been an artist and mistakenly wrote novels. I don't know anything about painting. Ask an expert and tell me that you like his article. Just read it. Painting, it can only be said that it is not bad for a writer to paint like this. But I still think he is good at painting and has an aura. Like a person will become a little blind, there is no way.

there is also an article written by an old man Li he, which is quoted in full by Wang Lang. I think it is very beautiful. There is an anecdote behind this article that the old man wrote the homework for others during the Southwest Associated University. It is said that Wen Yiduo knew at a glance that it was written by Wang Zengqi. In the Chronicles of School, Zhaowu mentioned a classmate Wang Zengqi: "at that time, he had very long hair, wore a shabby blue cloth gown with only two buttons, pulled a pair of cloth shoes without mentioning his heels, often told jokes, and smoked cigarettes." that kind of decadent look, it's all Chinese intellectual style. " Looking at the two together, the old man was a "Luotuo Qingyi liquor store" when he was young.

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to my surprise, Wang Zengqi doesn't seem to have a wide range of friends. His best friend is Zhu Dexi. Once upon a time, he mentioned a poem he wrote in more than one article: "few people walk outside the lotus pond, and the moss marks in the wild shop are an inch deep." After a cup of muddy wine, the wood fragrant flowers are wet and rainy, "says how he and Zhu Dexi encountered rain in a tavern in Kunming. Quoted, again and again, it can be seen that he is proud of his writing, and we can also see the deep friendship between him and Zhu Dexi. Wang Chao wrote that after Zhu Dexi's death, Wang Zengqi sat alone in his study and wanted to write something to commemorate his old friend. As a result, he covered his face and cried bitterly, with an unfinished painting at hand. This is really "a sad painting", which makes people's noses sour.

Wang Zengqi mentioned in his novel Sunday that he often went to Xia Fei Road to eat curry beef noodles with a talented young painter who was full of nonsense. I guess it was Huang Yongyu. "Old Man Wang Zengqi" confirmed my conjecture. Wang Chao also wrote that something happened between the old man and Huang Yongyu, and the friendship was not as good as it used to be. The practice of swallowing half of the gossip makes people curious. What on earth is it? it is probably not very pleasant. No matter how sincere the author is, he will inevitably hide it in some places when he recalls his loved ones.

Celebrity descendants write about celebrities, including celebrities who write about themselves, few people do not give money to their own experiences. It is impatient to read too much as if it is not enough to have one generation of celebrities, and the glory must be traced back to three generations. Wang Zengqi and his children are very good at this. They don't boast about this, but they can see that they have feelings.

the Wang family must be practicing medicine, and they seem to be in the medicine business (like Ximen officials). Wang Lang jokingly said that he was now called a "Confucian businessman." I don't know how to define the word "Confucian". Wang's father belongs to a young intellectual who has read some books, but not because he has read prominently. His image has appeared in Wang Zengqi's "Father and son become Brothers for many years". The shadow can also be found in some hometown-style novels of the old man: for example, the famous rural doctor who likes "a court of wind and rain, full of autumn wind and flat bean flowers". There are also young doctors whose wives are suffering from depression and cannot be diagnosed and treated by themselves. They are all surnamed Wang, and they are more or less like Wang Zengqi's father, good poetry, enlightened, a little bit arrogant, scattered but not indifferent.

Wang Zengqi resents others saying that he is a local writer because he feels that the word vernacular defines the author in terms of region, which makes people feel very limited. He traveled the country all his life, left his hometown when he was a teenager and was a tourist in his twilight years when he went back. Compared with Zhao Shuli of Yam Egg School, Shen Congwen from Phoenix is not "rustic" enough. I think the word vernacular, one is the hometown, the other is the soil, the hometown is not necessarily the hometown, it may also be a foreign place. Everywhere he goes, he likes to speculate on the local customs, and everything he writes has a down-to-earth fragrance. I especially like it, whether it's Gaoyou, Kunming, Shanghai, Beijing, or Inner Mongolia.

what makes people sad is that Wang Lang and Wang Chaodu mentioned that they were unfamiliar with their father's family. After liberation, the composition of the Wang family was not good, and they did not have much contact with them. The brother and sister jokingly said to the old man, "your father is a landlord." I guess another reason is that the old man is afraid of being inside.

once in a forum I talked about an article by Wang Zengqi, and someone immediately asked if there was anything delicious. I was ashamed of the old man for a moment because the proportion of his articles devoted to "eating" is not as large as that of Liang Shiqiu, but there are very few who do not mention "eating".

so no matter how reluctant he is to be called a gourmet, he can't get rid of the name. In contrast, I prefer the delicious food he says "incidentally" when he writes his characters and tells stories: Ye San's seasonal fresh fruit to the painter Ji Tao Min, the vegetarian dumplings in the nunnery, the full Han table that weeps at the age of 8,000, the fried tofu prepared by the screw girl for her lover, and the steamed chicken that the poor biology college students didn't have time to taste before they died.

Wang Zengqi is still a literati at heart. After eating, there are still some small emotions and thoughts that must be conveyed to the reader. "Old man Wang Zengqi," said that the old man is very miscellaneous in reading, has a good memory, and is a little clever, and when it comes to hard work, he is not as good as his teacher Shen Congwen. These little smarts of his are scattered in his words "eat". They are very vivid and unforgettable after reading them. Utilitarianism is a good shortcut for illiterates to improve their cultural accomplishment.

for example, he said that he admired Pei du most: "Chicken, pig, fish, and garlic, eat whenever you meet." When it comes to birth, old age, sickness, and death, "I feel so good that I wish I could stick it on the wall as a motto. Of course, it has only been understood in recent years that it is one thing to like something like the motto, and it is another to be able to practice it. When writing about fried rice in his hometown, he quoted the "Banqiao letter": "when it is cold and freezing, poor relatives and friends come to the door, first soak a large bowl of fried rice and give it away, accompanied by a small plate of miso ginger, which is the warmest old, warm and poor." the words warm, warm, warm and poor often remind me of some warm memories at dusk when I was a child, so although I have never eaten fried rice in hot water, fried rice is the comfort food that I often imagine.

one of the reasons why Wang Zengqi doesn't like Yuan Mei is that Yuan Mei can't cook: many of the menus in the garden are copied. Hearing what he said, coupled with his humble admission in his prose that he could cook a few small dishes, I once thought he was a kitchen master. "Old Man Wang Zengqi" recorded a lot of embarrassing things about the old man in the kitchen: he was greedy for boiled tripe and had to do it himself. as a result, boiled tripe could not even chew a child with excellent teeth; and mixing noodles to make cakes ended up in batter-I sympathize with him. For many southerners, pasta is indeed the ultimate challenge. And someone else gave him a chicken. He dared not kill it in the kitchen, so he had to call Wang Lang and urge him to go home and kill the chicken.

I was overjoyed to see these embarrassing things. In the novel, he used Jin Dongxin's mouth to satirize Yuan Mei. "it's begging to talk about a few kinds of homely fish." I don't know why I read some of this naughty old man's self-mockery from his mockery of Yuan Mei. A naughty elder in my family once told me that in the past, scholars were fastidious about eating, that is, they were poor, poor, cash-strapped, and had a lot of "formalities", so they had to make a fuss about fineness. Nowadays, people who advocate literati food are popular. I wonder if they have ever thought about the so-called literati cuisine, and how many of them are poor and fastidious. Perhaps the real foodies will feel that this kind of poverty is not purely professional, or that the pedantry of the literati is the root cause of the old man's high vision and low skill in the kitchen like Yuan Mei. I particularly like Wang Zengqi's poor and exquisite energy in talking about eating. I think it's like listening to old people tell stories, those food and drink, and those people in those years, towns and villages, intertwined with each other, without much tedious text rendering. Can make people read interesting.

 in the Tea House, Wang Zengqi quoted a poem: "remember the old days, follow Dad to have tea." Grind the snail shell in front of the door and make sand at the entrance of the alley. " It is said that he did not know where he had seen it when he was a child, and he still remembered it in his later years. I am infatuated with this kind of simple and clear but long words, and most of the time I get this aesthetic taste through Wang Zengqi's words, so I am full of gratitude to him.

I always think that the words "remember the good old days" is one of the quintessence of Wang Zengqi's words. He is not an old man, but he is nostalgic and not a local writer, but he is deeply sentimentally attached to his hometown. He said that he wrote because he wanted people to feel "the beauty of life", and he felt "it's good to be alive" more than once and the food he wrote was part of it.

Wang Zengqi's words are simple, sincere, and at the same time very beautiful, which I think is very rare. He also writes about bullies and rebels, death, poverty, and all kinds of ugliness and evil in human nature; he is not a philosopher, an educator, or a spiritual mentor, and he will not tell us about the ugliness, the pain, and the unsatisfaction. it's all illusory, it's not worth mentioning. But in the final analysis, just like the delicious food he wrote, his words not only let people like me with poor ancient prose skills, shallow and narrow reading surface appreciate the unique calm and simple beauty of Chinese culture in the old paper pile but also comfort all those who are lucky enough to read his words, those worldly flavors, those worldly fireworks, are the forces and forces that support us to endure a world full of absurdity, emptiness, and loneliness. The reason.